Take Out Hugo’s Fare and <i> Do</i> Meals at Home

If you’ve avoided Hugo’s, one of this town’s legendary power dining spots, simply because you actually eat rather than “do” meals, think again. The restaurant’s delicious food can be taken home--and should be--especially when a couple of glitches in their to-go system are smoothed out.

But it is important to remember that Hugo’s, unlike some take-out places where you can duck in wearing your bathrobe ‘n’ Burberry, is not the place for your paint-stained T-shirt--even if you are there just to pick up a meal. Make your way through the restaurant to peer in the cold salad case, and you’ll find yourself surrounded by le tout Hollywood. Look at the menu--filled with balsamic this and pancetta that--and you’ll discover that this is not your basic gummy pasta salad kind of takeout.

Everything on Hugo’s enormous and daily changing menu is available to carry out--from a 6 a.m. order of pumpkin pancakes to an 11 p.m. snack of prosciutto and melon. The only problem at the moment (unless you’re among the regulars who know the offerings) is that the Take Out Menu only lists the salads and cold entrees. But don’t let this put you off.

Every single thing we tasted (except for over-seared tuna and a plate of smoked mussels that seemed related to a set of Michelin tires) went from pleasant to sublime. To begin, Hugo’s has a nice way with soup. We tried a superb fresh corn and vegetable infusion that is midway between a chowder and a broth. Black mushroom soup (no cream) was particularly delicious with a flick of grated Parmesan sent on the side. Hugo’s version of the common appetizer, mozzarella marinara, was also superb.

Hugo’s started 25 years ago as a butcher shop and its heritage shows: calves’ liver with shiitake and Marsala was thick-cut, rare as we ordered it, and terrific. We never imagined it could travel so well. A veal chop with balsamic vinegar was moist and finely textured. This top-of-the-line choice is $19.95--and comes with a large portion of excellent vegetables. The Hugoburger, half a pound of delicious, juicy beef sitting on slices of red-skinned garlic fried potatoes, won’t break the bank: it’s $5.95 at lunch.

Pasta is similarly worth the price. There are more than 20 selections mixed with everything from scrambled eggs to garlic and seafood. “Pasta veal” came lusciously slicked with roasted peppers, fresh basil, butter and lots of meat. It also arrived home hot. Another dish, “pasta vercelli” was rough edged and delicious, but with none of the savory madness the purported capers and anchovies announced.

We loved a finely textured veal terrine served with a green salad and, separately packed, the best creamy vinaigrette to-go we’ve had. The fully dressed radicchio salad fits into the category of eat-within-15-minutes-or-no-guarantee. The juicy, sweet fruit salad and the delicate cold chicken curry with dried currants travel well, as does a chicken with sun-dried tomatoes that reminds you just how tender and delicious a salad made with good chicken can be.

Desserts include fruit pies and cheesecake. They are decent but not nearly as exciting as they should be, particularly at $4.95 a slice. I prefer the iced mango and passion fruit tea, which tastes as if someone had slipped a gardenia behind your ear.