The Mamas and the Papas : <i> On a budget? Why not try one of these family-run restaurants. </i>

Au Fontainebleu, 12130 Santa Monica Blvd., West Los Angeles. (213) 826-8177. Style: Old-fashioned French with a dash of Vietnamese. Setting: Hideaway with huge chandeliers. Recommended: Spicy shrimp soup; diced filet mignon a la Provencale; chocolate mousse. Cost per person: $18-$40.

Elena’s, 1000 S. Glendale Ave., Glendale. (818) 241-5730. Style: Home-style Greek and Armenian at K mart prices. Setting: Ramshackle. Recommended: Lentil soup; lamb chop, shish kebab and lulu kebab (sausage-shaped rolls of spiced chopped beef) combo. Cost per person: $7-$10.

La Rotisserie, the Beverly Center, at 3rd Street and La Cienega, Los Angeles. (213) 657-0404. Style: Mere et pere in a mall. Setting: Peach and aqua, mirrors and flowers. Recommended: Escargots ; rotisseried chicken; tarte tatin. Cost per person: $14-$28.

La Serenata de Garibaldi, 1842 E. 1st St., Los Angeles. (213) 265-2887. Style: Fish from family recipes. Setting: Colorful. Recommended : Pescado rosado , fish in orange sauce; shrimp with cilantro sauce; grilled fish in Mexican mustard sauce. Cost per person: $10-$25.

Osteria Nonni, 3219 Glendale Blvd., Atwater. (213) 666-7133. Style: Angeli clone with a twist of small-town charm. Setting: Pseudo-industrial. Recommended: Pizza; croquettes di patate ; spaghetti puttanesca. Cost per person: $10-$20.