Ready for Another Chardonnay?

Few Los Angeles restaurants are as unabashedly romantic as Le Chardonnay on Melrose Avenue. Its lavish art nouveau decor, modeled after the glittering brasserie La Vagenende in Paris, was always more of an attraction than its stolid French bistro cooking. Where else could ladies of a certain age count on such flattering light or such attentive waiters? So what if the place was a little corny? Dinner at Le Chardonnay was a pleasant enough evening.

Now that the restaurant has new owners and a new chef, Le Chardonnay has a shot at becoming something more serious. French-born chef Jean Pierre Lemanissier comes with a good resume: The veteran of Ma Maison headed the kitchen at the now-closed Antoine’s in Le Meridien in Newport Beach before taking a position at Givenchy Hotel & Spa in Palm Springs.

Lemanissier’s new menu at Le Chardonnay doesn’t do away with all the old Le Chardonnay standbys. He has, of course, kept the rotisserie duck and chicken turning over a handsome spit in the dining room. Unfortunately, both were sadly overcooked on a recent visit. I’m hoping it’s just that he needs to learn the rotisserie’s quirks. But calves’ liver with onions wasn’t terrific, either. He has added some new dishes such as a basket of mushrooms with citrus dressing or seabass encrusted with Parmesan and beefed up the specials each night, but so far, it’s hard to detect much of a difference in the quality of the cooking. Although it’s early on, I was hoping for something more inspired.

The crowd, however, is looking a bit younger.

BE THERE

Le Chardonnay, 8284 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles; (213) 655-8880. Open Monday through Friday for lunch, and daily for dinner. Major credit cards accepted. Valet parking. Appetizers $7.50-$12.75; entrees $17.75-$28.50; lunch prices are lower.