Why we’re nuts about walnuts, plus a dozen recipes

The fall markets are so full of wonderful fruits and vegetables — peppers, squash and eggplant; apples, pears, figs and persimmons — but one of my favorites is the walnut. I’m nuts about them.

Fresh-crop walnuts, right off the tree, are so creamy and sweet. The shells are still pliable; you can crush them in your hand. Serve these with a platter of ripe cheeses and the last of the red wine; there isn’t a fall dessert better.

Of course, there are plenty of great desserts that use walnuts — and you don’t need to seek out the first fresh-crop ones either. There’s baklava, of course, and all kinds of combinations with chocolate — that’s a natural pairing if ever there was one.

Cakes, tarts, cookies are all better with walnuts.

And there are savory uses as well — toasted and scattered across a winter squash risotto or a salad with grilled romaine. There’s even one recipe for pounding them into a pesto that is served atop grilled sardines and fennel. Now that’s versatility. Click through the gallery for recipes.

How to choose: Walnuts that are already shelled are convenient, but they do go rancid fairly quickly. Choose nutmeats that are plump and pale; avoid any that are shriveled or discolored. For whole nuts, avoid any where the shell shows signs of mold.

How to store: Whole nuts can be stored at room temperature for several weeks. Shelled nuts must be refrigerated immediately. Even better: Freeze them in a tightly sealed bag and they’ll last up to a year.

Are you a food geek? Follow me on Twitter @russ_parsons1

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