Counter Intelligence: Ración

Pulpo Gallego is beer-braised octopus with fingerling potatoes and pimenton.  (Katie Falkenberg / For the Los Angeles Times)

Ración is a Basque-influenced tapas restaurant in a narrow storefront in Pasadena.  (Katie Falkenberg / For the Los Angeles Times)

Teresa Montano, left, a chef at Ración, opened the restaurant with Loretta Peng.   (Katie Falkenberg / For the Los Angeles Times)

The wine list includes three Txakolinas, as well as the hard-to-find Rueda from Belondrade y Lurton, a delicious Spanish white.   (Katie Falkenberg / For the Los Angeles Times)

Arroz con Gambas, crispy whole prawns, lobster rice and bouillabaisse, is a kind of deconstructed paella.  (Katie Falkenberg / For the Los Angeles Times)

Duck sausage-stuffed squid with brava and squid ink sauces.  (Katie Falkenberg / For the Los Angeles Times)

Loretta Peng of Ración.  (Katie Falkenberg / For the Los Angeles Times)